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IS IT LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT?
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Situated at South Africa’s west coast, some 75 km north of Cape Town, we find the scenic farmers town of Darling. I immediately start to wonder about how a village would get such a name. My enthusiasm was dulled rather quickly when I heard that this happened pretty unspectacular: Eponym was Sir Charles Henry Darling who travelled to the Cape in 1851. Whether he presaged already what fine beverages this region will be able to create one day?
On a gravel road we approach the center of this 10’000 citizen village. The streets look neat, a peaceful atmosphere is what we encounter. Vineyards as far as one can see. Pockets of eroded granite type soils are selected as close as five kilometers from the cold Atlantic Ocean, at altitudes between one hundred and fifty and three hundred meters above sea level. Lush green swells out of the juicy leaves, which indulge in Swartland’s strong wind. The influence of the sun combined with the cool ocean breeze, makes this region a stronghold of Sauvignon Blanc. At the end of a small road we finally reach today’s destination: Ormonde Private Cellar.
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SO WHO ARE YOU, ORMONDE?
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A long held family tradition is obviously the cornerstone for this passionately operated wine estate. Theodore Eksteen and William Vernon Basson were the founder fathers of this 400 hectare vineyard. The both were dedicated an own wine. Fineness and elegance cannot be surpassed anymore here. Those two wines show the very best a South African wine only can. More about this a bit later on.
Soil preparation is thorough, and maximum root development for nourishment and optimum water usage of the vines is essential. They do not irrigate at Ormonde Private Cellar and therefore the clay content of the deep red soil is such, that it retains the moisture from the winter rains through to the dry summer months until harvest time in February. A warmer micro climate prevails around the berries of bush vines. This initiates a shorter ripening period, resulting in a fruitier juice. Most of their vines are trellised and this allows the afternoon breeze to move beneath the vines, cooling them down, bringing a balanced natural acidity and freshness to the wines.
The wine estate markets three different labels: “Alexanderfontein”; unmistakably fresh, well-balanced and elegantly aromatic to make any occasion special. These wines are crafted for unpretentious pleasure and enjoyment of the simpler aspects of life. Alexanderfontein wines are mainly to be found in the local market. Ormonde Private Cellar also produces the “Ondine” range which showcases an array of wines with which to entice the pallet. Venturing into new cultivars, trying new wine making techniques and ideas pollinated from world travel. Each wine has a unique story to tell! “Ondine” is the official wine of the South African Ballet Theatre. The “Ormonde” Ranger – the flagship. The principle behind Ormonde is simple. Each year it must represent the finest wines from the best grapes selected. The vineyard block selection may alter slightly with each vintage, but the philosophy behind the wines never changes. Generations-old French traditions of open fermentation, plunging, racking, barrel ageing and blending are dutifully used to create these masterpieces.
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TRADITION RULES!
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“Terroir” is a big word in this (wine-) world. The set of all environmental factors of a particular piece of land that affect the characteristics of a vine planted there. This is how vineyards are being cultivated from time immemorial. Unfortunately, mainstream does not stop at the wine business either. This is why many producers – understandably – create their wines exactly the way the consumer likes them to be. Luckily there are still some winemakers that remain unimpressed by this trend and keep following the “terroir” notion determinately. Such do Ormonde Private Cellar, well aware of the specific characteristics of the Swartland region. In order to embody this even more, the sub-label “Chip off the Old Block” has been created. These wines are single vineyard wines, reflecting the best terroir on Ormonde and showcasing the oldest vineyards.
The tasting commences with a Sémillon 2014 from Ondine. Elegant and well balanced. Grassy , lime with hints of green apple and herbs. After the Chardonnay of the same range, of which 50 % was matured in oak barrels, we get presented the heart of Ormonde’s white wine production: The Sauvignon Blancs. To start with the Ormonde Sauvignon Blanc 2015 “Chip off the Old Block”. Not more than five hectares are used to make this wine. Delicious gooseberry and green fig aromas with hints of capsicum. Right after we try the Ormonde Sauvignon Blanc 2015. An explosion of tropical fruit. To complete the trilogy, the Ondine Sauvignon Blanc 2014. A true bouquet of asparagus escapes the glass, paired with ripe fig and gooseberry. Undertones of green pepper completes the zesty minerality on the palate. The acidity slightly more decent than in a Sancerre, but well balanced. Excellent as an aperitif, pasta or an Asian dish. Our favourite!
Another highlight is the Ormonde Barrel Selected Shiraz 2013, which will certainly become even smoother with two or three more years in the bottle. A wonderful experience is the Ondine Cabernet Franc 2013. An homage to the wines of France and a promise to the future of South African wines! With its intense bouquet of herbs, pepper and berries it reflects origin and terroir of the Darling appellation. Well integrated ripe tannins allow for a well-constructed palate. Perfect to pot-roasted pheasant with plum sauce, crisp potato wedges and a garden salad. Alternatively, prepare cubed leg of lamb or the Italian Osso Bucco – made with veal shank – slowly simmered in good red wine with baby onions, mushrooms, bacon and fresh herbs like thyme, oregano and Italian parsley. Serve it with crusty bread to mop up the sauce. Next wine on the list is the Ormonde Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 “Chip off the Old Block” that reveals deliciously smelling black pepper and gentle hints of mint on the palate.
This afternoon’s peak, however, is the Vernon Basson 2008. With its 55 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 % Cabernet Franc it is one true mind-blowing sensation. Black pepper, flamed cherries and blueberries; the smooth tannins evolute decently on the palate. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were fermented in open fermenters with plunging occurring daily. After fermentation the wine was soaked on the skins for 14 days, to enhance extraction of color and tannins. Each component was individually aged in barrels for 9 months. The final blend was then barreled for a further 6 months. The Vernon Basson 2008 is one of the best South African wines I have ever drunk.
Overall an acutely positive experience we were offered in Darling. We look forward to be having some of these top wines in our range from spring 2016 onwards. So stay tuned, we will be announcing the arrival very soon!
Tastefully yours,
Marc, PW
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